Well its coming , blotch control

As some of you are aware we have developed a blotch control , wildest stuff you ever seen, it is water based , nontoxic , totally safe  , no chemicals , just don’t let it freeze , and as soon as packaging arrives we are going to release it  , its is designed to work under primarily water base dyes and stains , it doesn’t help botching it fixes it , simply put.

 we have worked with the mix to be sure it is correct , so as to eliminate guess-work , the way it works the best is using two coats , the first coat will seal and raise the grain , then you scuff it smooth apply another coat then a light scuff and your ready , the reason for 2 coats is simple , a blotch control has to be even and equal throughout , it has to equalize the surface  , but as with any product, water or solvent , the first coat of anything is going to raise the fiber , and it has to be smoothed down, in the case of a blotch control ,you stand the chance of cutting thru the film, and if so its going to dye/stain differently and most likely blotch , so 2 coats we get the smooth surface as well as the proper surface , the biggest thing with this product is it preps the surface , and since it will actually take a dye or stain, the loss of color is far less than any other product , I can apply it to cherry that has sapwood , and when I color it , the sap is gone , sometimes you may need to lightly wipe a second coat on the actual sap,  but it colors evenly and equally , I had Big Bob do some testing for me as well on some hard maple, as well as some aspen , and in case you don’t know , these are 2 of the worst , I even used it on some yellow pine plywood , which you can’t hardly paint that stuff,  I used 3 coats on it , and then used a strong dye on it … color was perfectly even , Bob said he did some maple with a big green heart streak and it came out even as well, Today I’m trying it on some green/white poplar ,  It also fixes another big issue , solid wood and plywood combinations , they never color the same , a couple of coats of this stuff and they do , because all the surfaces are equal , it just flat a** works, .

the draw back I have found , is if you don’t let it dry thoroughly , and you really soak it and keep wiping  you can dissolve it some ,I have also found that some  dyes/stains , when you try to wipe a topcoat , if all is not totally dry you can try to pull color off , but this is true with any blotch control, and it seems red tones are the worst, even in the same manufactures , it has to do with the burn in, or bite the different colors have , I have seen this in almost all water base products , even on raw wood , but if you give it a very light coat of shellac ( spray can so as not to disturb the color) , the issue is resolved, the pigments are locked down , but again it allows you to do what could only be done in a sprayed environment , prior , testing has also shown it works under oil base as well , we have tested it under alcohol dyes , the only think it doesn’t work on well is the thin oil base box store stains .

The basic instructions will be , apply , let dry , 1 hour, scuff, reapply let dry 4 to 6 hours  , then proceed , bout as simple as it gets … looking forward to getting this out there , it fixes one of the biggest issues in finishing today , it will open up a whole new world for the home based folks , I am excited .. will let you know when its ready to go

time to go smear and wipe some more stuff  later y’all

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2 Responses to Well its coming , blotch control

  1. bob says:

    Well I have been trying this stuff for a while. I used all water base dyes. It works slick as he said. The hard maple had a big red strip of heartwood and white sap wood together. Put 2 coats on and then hit it with dye. Came out all even. The unsealed part was nice and blotchy and ugly.
    The aspen was even better. Aspen is this beautiful soft bright white wood.Take stains and dyes just terrible. Again 2 coats and it was just so nice. Even color all up and down. I tried different finishes on top of the dyes. Thick varnish, lacquer, oil finishes. Had not issues with adhesion at all. I left the stuff puddled on top just to see. Taped it and cut with a knife. Nothing lifted. This stuff just seems to work.

  2. Hey Bob just to clarify…are you referring to a paint type tape test? If so the surface should be cut with a razor in a cross hatch or X pattern. Then apply the tape (rub it on) over the scored area, I think there is a special tape (its rated) but in the field I have seen guys just use masking tape. Once the tape is on quickly pull off.


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