Don’t let the title fool ya, hard as one may try, making wood longer is not a real doable thing although sometimes we can get a little “creative”. The whole reason for banding this table is to make it larger. We have some really nicely figured Bubinga and we want a nice simple period table, tapered legs , not fancy and not contemporary. So we want to band it with a subtle compliment. The walnut was just not making it so we had decided to use some tiger maple, that was looking good, but was too much contrast. Dying it and maintaining the 1/8″ inlay would be all but impossible. Dye will bleed from the tiger to the hard maple. The glue line will help seal it off but it still bleeds and a blotchy inlay isn’t what we want so we want something that we can go natural with. I then remembered some nice figured curly cherry I had, so I went and got it, immediately I liked it. As the cherry ages and darkens a bit the subtleness will be more so, again, a nice contrast but not drastic. I would usually go for a more dramatic contrast, but not here, for the setting it will be in nor for a simplistic table such as this.
The next challenge I faced was that I did not have enough Bubinga for the balance of the table. I had purchased some for leg stock and aprons but it was just straight grained Bubinga, but I had a plan. What I did was I veneered the legs after tapering them with some 3/32” shop made veneer ( re-sawed and drum sanded), but it had to be applied with polyurethane glue, not fun. I had to do the tapered sides one side at a time, the straight sides I could glue the veneer to two legs by clamping them back to back (wax paper in between), took some time and a lot of scraping, cleaning each side before gluing, took some time but I got them all done and they look super and match the table grain better. I had a smaller section of the old original countertop that I was able to get the veneer out of , and another 3″ wide piece that was 1 ½” thick, so I re-sawed it and book matched it, that will make the front apron and the counter top also yielded enough for me to get two drawer fronts out of, I will use the straight Bubinga for the side aprons and the back, but I plan to give the table nice 6″ overhangs on the sides, so the “regular ” Bubinga will be tucked in under the top, in the shadows, so to speak, but the front and all the “show” area will be figured , so we had to do a little creative thinking and wood stretching here…but we got it…. Today I will bread board the top, and hopefully get the base standing, and move on now that we have all the wood made, tomorrow we will see how it’s progressing.